S. Pacific 2004: 5

Sunday, October 17, 2004

Tim & I arrived at the one café that serves breakfast just after it opened at 8 AM. The outdoor eating area is located right next to a Buddhist temple, so the air was perfumed by incense as we enjoyed the view of the bay. The island is dotted with Buddhist and Taoist shrines, some Muslim mosques and Christian churches to serve the ethnic mix of 60% Chinese, 20% Malay and 20% Caucasian. Everyone seems to get along fine, although the each group lives in separate areas where they speak their own language.

Our first exploration was along the coast road which has an old cemetery running alongside for about a kilometre, with no separation between the road and the graves. We had a look at the Christmas Island Resort, which apparently was built at a cost of sixty million dollars on land leased from the Australian Government. When it was operating chartered planes flew to the island from Singapore and Jakarta, bringing in Asian gamblers to try their luck in the casino. It was a roaring success for two years, bringing loads of tourists and money to the island, but when the financial collapse hit South East Asia it closed down .

We were told a deal to reopen the casino had been reached recently with a Korean group, but when the Koreans came to the island to finalize the deal the government backed out. It is a sore point with the islanders, particularly the business people, and the cause of a lot of dissention. It is part of the reason that the island government is formally appealing to the UN to be granted status as a non-self governing independent territory with more right of self determination.

Our route looped back to the settlement where we started, then off in the opposite direction under the conveyors of a big phosphate loading facility. The road passed through the Malay settlement and came to a dead end at a WWII gun emplacement just past the former governor's mansion. The docking area can be used only in light seas, as there are no sheltered harbours on the island.

Next we decided to drive all roads on the island that we could with our 4 X 4. There were tracks leading through beautiful unspoiled jungle, some accessing trails to small beaches where the cliffs had been worn back. The water is as clear as crystal, and the diving here is reputed to be excellent.

The vegetation on the island is varied, with large areas covered with pinnacles of limestone left after the phosphate had been mined from around them. There were a number of active mining sites, and most good roads were there for the use of the road trains hauling the phosphate. There used to be a railway on the island but it has not been used for years.

By 2:30 in the afternoon we had driven all roads, and I had walked to some beaches and view points. Tim went back to the hotel to read, I went to the pub where I was introduced to everyone in the place by the bar maid, then had a good talk to the owner. He came to the island to do the steel construction on the resort, liked the place, and is still there.

In the evening Tim & I drove to the Chinese community, called Poon Saan, where there are two Chinese restaurants. We chose the Silver Birch, as it had tables outside on a patio, and had a very good meal. The place was packed with Chinese customers.

Monday, October 18, 2004

After another good breakfast we got some essentials done. We gassed the car, changed money at the bank at a much better favourable rate, mailed the hotel room key that I made off with from Alam Indah in Bali and tried the Tourist office internet café. It would not connect with Yahoo, so I finally got my update away by using the tourist office account. If anyone hit reply it went to the Christmas Island Tourist Office!

The paid staff and volunteers at the tourist office are truly dedicated. They have done a good job on the office, but know tourism is an uphill battle here. The island has nothing to offer that a tourist could not find in a more accessible and less expensive location. Islanders are trying to get something going, as the phosphates are expected to run out in 7 years, and half of the 350 wage earners on the island work for the phosphate company. At this time 65% of the island is national park, so that prevents mining from expanding.

The government plan seems to be to turn the island into a penal colony. There are currently about 45 people in a detention camp and the government is constructing a huge new refugee camp costing between $A270 ($US 210) and $A500 ($US 389) million (depending upon who your talk to). The idea is to close down other camps and centralize them on Christmas Island.

After killing a couple of hours at the hotel we headed for the airport to find we were the only people in the building, in spite of dire warnings in florescent orange on the ticket about checking in two hours before the flight. The rental car was left in the parking lot with the key - all very casual. Staff finally arrived and a couple of hours later we were soaring westward across 950 km of Indian Ocean to the Cocos (Keeling) Islands in an Avro 146 jet operated by Airnorth.

These Australian Islands with their population of 700 are located 2,768 km northwest of Perth. It is an atoll, with several sandy islands located around its rim. There are no hills, but there are beautiful beaches. There is very little development; it would be an idea spot for a beach and water sports lover who wanted to be away from mass tourism. Airport security was easy going - those of us in transit were sent out of the terminal to some benches under the palm trees. I wandered across the road to the beach, then into the hotel and shops that were nearby with no problem.

The food on the 3 ½ hour flight to Perth was ghastly, so I decided to put off eating until we arrived. Customs and immigrations were straight forward for a change, but on arrival at the Intercity Hotel we discovered there was neither bar nor restaurant, and that the closest pub was a mile and a half away. I gave up the idea of food and drink, made a cup of tea in the room, and decided to do some writing.

When I loaded the file I realized everything I had written over the past week and a half was missing. In a panic, I checked my list of credit card expenditures, hotel data, addresses and other files I keep up to date but all were missing recent data. I had backed up the computer to my portable hard drive in the morning, but it wrote the old files over the new. I finally found that when the time zone was checked the day and time were left the same, but the month changed to June, causing the system to back up the wrong way. I went to bed hungry and mumbling!

Tuesday, October 19, 2004

We left for the airport earlier than necessary, as I was starving and planned to eat at an airport restaurant, but there weren't any. Perth was repeating itself again! The last time Marilynn and I visited Perth we stayed at the beach North of Perth and went two days before we were able to find a place open where we could buy food!

The Quantas reservation computer system had broken down, so Tim decided to join the massive, stalled line-up while I foraged for food. I found a kiosk that had a couple of sandwiches and juice, so that eased the pain a little. As I was eating, Quantas announced that passengers without checked baggage could use a counter in the departure area to check in. Tim disentangled himself from the line-up and we headed through security. No other passengers were at the counter so service was instant.

The 3 ½ hour flight to Melbourne passed quickly and comfortably. On arrival Tim and I headed for the closest pub in the airport to have a couple of farewell beer. He then headed for the international terminal for his flight to Auckland and home to California, and I caught the flight to Hobart where an old friend, Wally Armstrong, was waiting to pick me up at the airport. It was a short drive to his new home where we settled down to a few drinks with his wife Kathryn. It was 1 AM before we turned in.

Wednesday, October 20, 2004

Wally took me for a tour of the City of Hobart first thing in the morning. Hobart was the second city to be settled in Australia, after Sydney, and has many beautiful old buildings. The downtown area is built around picturesque harbours where fresh seafood is readily available right off the boats. There are around 200,000 residents, enough to have all the necessary services and amenities, but not enough to cause traffic problems or the crime, pollution, noise and other problems associated with bigger cities. I had expected cold weather, but it was a beautifully clear, warm sunny day.

We drove a short distance out of the city to the top of a mountain with an amazing view of the area. As we climbed the vegetation changed radically to scrubby, wind blown trees. At the top pockets of snow were still visible. The view was spectacular - we looked directly down on the city, could follow the river from the city for miles upstream, and could look out over the hills and forests of Tasmania to distant snow capped mountains.

After driving through various parts of the city we returned to the house to pick up Kathryn who would join us for lunch in the wine area. Their home is ideally located for easy access to the centre of the city and to all routes leading out of town. It was no time at all before we were driving through fields of grapes.

We pulled into a winery with a restaurant overlooking grape fields which sloped down to a beautiful bay below. The food was superb, as was the wine. Duly fortified, we headed off for a drive through the countryside, taking a completely different route home.

Leaving the car at the house, Wally and I walked a block to the harbour where his rowing club is located, then on around the bay to the Motor Boat Club. They have a nice pub overlooking the harbour and the harbour bridge. It was a great place to pass the afternoon, shooting the breeze and downing a quantity of the excellent local beer. Dinner was back at the house, followed by some truly fine sipping whiskey before bed.

Thursday, October 21, 2004

Wally got up with me before dawn to drive me to the airport to catch my 7 AM flight to Melbourne. For the second time in a couple of days there was almost no one in the airport and no one at the Quantas counter. Wally had to go and move his car, so we said our farewells and I waited forty five minutes before I could check in. The flight to Melbourne and another flight to Sydney went fine, with breakfast served on each of them. In Melbourne I made arrangements with a liquor vendor to have a good bottle of scotch couriered to John Goulding, the manager of Air Nauru, for looking after Tim & I so well.

I had to change terminals in Sydney for the flight to Lord Howe Island. When the time to board the Lord Howe flight came there was an announcement that the flight would be delayed 15 minutes while life rafts were fitted in the plane. Half an hour later we were called to board, so proceeded down stairs, had our boarding passes run through the machine and climbed onto the bus which took us out to the plane. As we approached the plane an exchange came over the radio, loud enough for everyone in the bus to hear, that went something like this.

"Do you have the Lord Howe passengers on the bus?"

"Yes"

"They should not have left as we are not sure the flight will go. Bring them back to the terminal."

"What is the problem?"

"There is a storm on Lord Howe and we are not sure the plane can land."

"Are you going to tell them?"

"You will have to tell them, no one else is there."

"I'm not taking the responsibility for this."

"You can blame it on me, just tell them and bring them back"

Of course, there was nothing left to tell as everyone heard the conversation, but we listened politely to the explanation, returned through the arrivals gate, back around through security and to the waiting area.

An hour or so passed before it was announced that the plane would indeed be able to land at Lord Howe Island, so we proceeded down stairs, they tore the stub off the boarding pass and we climbed onto the bus. After a lengthy wait a Quantas agent boarded the bus to inform us that the pilot of the aircraft found that his seat was loose. The ground crew had tried to tighten it, but a part was needed which would take about half and hour. We were to returned through the arrivals gate, back around through security and to the waiting area to exchange our boarding passes for new ones. The lunch counter would accept the stub from the new boarding pass in payment for lunch.

About 45 minutes later, another announcement was made that we would board, so we all proceeded down the stairs, were manually checked off a list of names, boarded the bus and were driven to the plane. The level of apprehension on the bus was high, but this time we actually boarded the Dash 8 aircraft and away we went.

After a 1 hour 50 minute flight we were warned to buckle up as there would be turbulence with winds of up to 70 km per hour on approach to Lord Howe. The frothy sea below gave an indication of the wind strength. There was definitely turbulence, and when it began a terrified woman resident of the island started screaming, not stopping until we were taxiing to the terminal. The pilot did a masterful job of wrestling the plane onto the ground, but it was a truly hairy approach and landing.

Pixie, the manager of Pinetrees Lodge and descendant of one of the original settlers on the island, took us on a brief tour in the hotel van while the baggage was unloaded. As we were driving parallel to the runway another Dash 8 was on approach, flying almost sideways against the crosswind. I asked that we stop and had just got my video camera rolling when the plane was hit by a monstrous blast of wind, knocking his right wing almost into the ground and blowing him over the road. He hit full throttle and went around for another try. Although we didn't see his second attempt it was obviously successful, as I met the pilot and his crew in the hotel bar a little later.

Reuben Graham, the pilot, had a look at the video and was quite shaken - it was a closer call than he had thought. He told me he had barely enough fuel to do the second approach. The plane is a customs patrol aircraft operated by a private company under contract. He and his crew were definitely ready for a couple of stiff drinks!

Saturday, October 23, 2004

Yesterday I decided to hire a bicycle to explore the island. My performance was pretty wobbly at first, but eventually I got onto it. The last time I was on a bicycle was when Marilynn and I rode from Zimbabwe to Zambia in Africa. I'd not tried a bike with 7 gears before, but it was sure nice to have on the hills. Everyone on the island waves or calls out a greeting as they pass others on the road. I'd have thought the people who live here would get a bit fed up with it, but apparently not.

First I headed past the airport looking at the beaches. The climbers who wanted to scale Mt. Gower, which at 875 meters is the islands highest point, were disappointed by the morning rain. The hike requires a guide, and is cancelled in rain. The weather soon cleared, though, and it was a warm, sunny day. The mountain is close to the airport, but I could not see it for cloud - another good reason not to climb it.

I took a video of the customs plane taking off, and then cycled every road on the island. There are some beautiful beaches and some pretty hefty hills as well. By the end of the day my legs and knees knew they had had a workout, but the worst damage is from my backside rubbing on the narrow bicycle seat. What a place to get a blister! In addition to the cycling I walked a number of the trails that led to place of interest and so feel I have earned my beer and supper.

The island was accidentally discovered in 1788 by the captain of a ship taking convicts to Norfolk Island. It was first settled by 3 New Zealand men in 1833, a population that increased to 9 by year end. The population was 16 in 1853, 40 in 1869 and currently is around 290. There are 400 tourists allowed on the island at a time, the number of accommodation beds permitted. Most places on the island are self catering, with two hotels offering full meal service.

At Pinetrees, meal time seating is similar to a cruise ship, with name tags showing where each guest is to sit. Someone walking around the garden in front of the rooms beating rhythmically on a tin pan is the call to meals, which have been consistently excellent. The original house, which has the dining room, bar and lounge, was built in 1884. There is no crime on the island, so I won't have to worry about leaving with the key - there are no locks on the doors. People leave their surfboards or snorkelling equipment at their favourite beach with no problem.

The only way a person can move to the island to live is by replacing someone, and purchasing their home and property. Properties must be offered to island residents first, and are usually bought for children of existing families. The island is 11 km long and 3 km wide at the widest point.

After dinner Mike, an elderly character who was seated at our table, mentioned there was a party shaping up next door at the bowling club, so off we went. It was definitely going to brew into a party, but we retreated after a few beer. It apparently doesn't really get going until around midnight. As the bowling club has a good bar and a large dance floor it is where the community congregate to party. The locals kept pretty much to themselves, but visitors were made very welcome by the staff.

This morning Graham & Zenia Pullet, frequent visitors to Lord Howe who took me under their wing, mentioned there was a snorkelling tour going out to North Beach, an area that requires climbing a range of hills to reach by land, so I turned in my bicycle and signed on. The wind was blowing strongly, and there had been rain with thunder earlier, but it looked like it might clear up.

The boat was a square barge with seats along the sides and snorkelling gear in the middle. Although the water temperature is advertised at 21 degrees, it was well below my minimum, so I stayed in the boat. A cold wind was howling between two hills, making it very uncomfortable to come out of the water. The guide was feeding the fish so people would not have to swim far from the boat to see them. It was cold enough that no one stayed in very long.

We then went ashore where coffee, tea and cake were served up in a picnic area with change rooms and BBQ facilities. I took a hike to a nearby cove called Old Gulch, then joined the Pullets in hiking up Mt. Eliza where the nesting terns were attacking all comers. Having survived the aerial assault, we boarded the boat for the return trip.

One disappointment was that due to the huge seas it was not possible to charter a boat to go and see Ball's Pyramid, located about 25 km from Lord Howe Island. Wally said it was really worth seeing. It is described as a 548 meter high pyramid of rock jutting straight up out of the ocean. Apparently it is the highest single rock in the world.

This afternoon I'll head to the museum as they are reputed to have the only public email facilities on the island. Hopefully I'll be able to get this away. Tomorrow will be a lazy start for my 2:40 PM flight to Sydney, and the connection to Vanuatu.

Well, that didn't work. The museum was said to close at 4, but a little after 3 there was a sign on one glass double door that said "closed" and one on the other than said "open". There was definitely no mixed message about the locked doors or lack of staff, though. I'll give it another shot in the morning.

Sunday, October 24, 2004

It is a beautiful sunny day today. I walked to the museum after breakfast to find they were actually open and had internet, but of the coin op type with a rubber keyboard - deathly slow and no possible way to read my floppy disc. I had a quick scan of the inbox and answered the urgent ones but the system was so slow it took 20 minutes to log on and send two emails so I gave it up.

The flight to Sydney was on time and comfortable. Sydney weather was the same as when I was through before - miserable and rainy with low visibility. I called an old friend, Trevor Kelly, who had come to the airport to spend some time with me before my flight out but with the time to get checked in, transfer to the other side of the airport, do the customs and immigration formalities, I finally phoned him again on his cell phone from the departure gate as it was too late to get together. He was only a short distance away, but with security there was no chance to meet.

They allowed my baggage as carry on at check in, but at the gate it was sent to be loaded with other baggage. When I received it in Vanuatu it had obviously been left sitting outside in the rain for awhile - it was soaked through, including the contents. Fortunately all the electronics stuff was separate and I had it with me.

The 3 ½ hour flight to Vanuatu on Air Vanuatu was comfortable. A band was playing in the terminal to greet us in spite of being close to midnight. Immigration was quick and easy and after a 15 minute cab ride I was at the Vila Chaumieres Hotel more than ready for bed.

Now, once again, I'm off in search of an internet facility that will send this!