Himalayas & China 2005: 17 - Bumthang Valley to Thimphu, Bhutan

Friday, October 28, 2005

It was another easy morning, with a 9 AM start for the town of Tongsa. We are starting to retrace our tracks - this is the town we came through on our way to Bumthang. Along the way Sonam pointed out that houses either have a giant carved phallus hanging from each of the four corners of the roof, mounted above the front door, or painted on the building. This is for fertility. Many signs along the road promote safe sex.

After a couple of hours and several photo stops we arrived at the comparatively deluxe Yangkhil Hotel. It is built on a side hill above the highway right across from the largest Dzong in Bhutan, and is very well done throughout. The rooms are very comfortable.

Tim opted to stay at the hotel, as there would be a lot of stairs at the Dzong, and Jeanna was losing the battle to her flu, so decided to stay and rest while Marilynn and I accompanied Sonam to the Trongsa Dzong. It was built in 1667, and originally housed a very powerful governor, as the Dzong controls access to the interior of Bhutan. The first and second king ruled the country from this Dzong.

The Dzong was entered via a footbridge across a stream, then along a path that sloped upward under the towering walls. Once inside a set of steps led to the first courtyard. From there steps climbed in two opposite directions, both of which linked to other courtyards and some of the 21 temples. At the end of one courtyard is the residence of the Crown Prince when he visits Tongsa.

There was some construction going on in one of the upper courtyards, and many women were carrying sacks of rock or sand to the site from a location across from the Dzong. Women in Bhutan do a lot of heavy work. It is common to see them doing road construction or hauling material and cement to upper levels of buildings under construction. Often small children were walking around with babies strapped to their backs, allowing mothers to work. At other times women were working with babies on their backs.

Women are not permitted in the Dzong after 5 PM at night, as it is an operating monastery, so the queens whose husbands ruled from here returned to a house at the entrance to the town each night. When the Crown Prince marries his wife will be required to do the same.

In an upper courtyard Sonam noticed a young monk carrying items he didn't recognize. When questioned, the monk said they were for a dance, which is part of a 16-day ceremony being conducted in the Dzong, and that this was day 3 of the celebration. Sonam immediately headed off to see if he could get us permission to view the dance.

While Marilynn and I waited for him we heard sounds like gunshots. This was explained when a monk descended to the courtyard, hitting the ground with a wide leather strap. Sonam later explained that this was to ensure the way was cleared for the procession of about 30 monks that followed. At the end of the procession another monk with a similar device was also hitting the ground.

When Sonam returned he reported that one monk said the ceremonial dancing would start at 4 PM, and another said at 5 PM. The later time would cause a problem, as visitors must leave the Dzong at 5. These ceremonies are not advertised as they are not for the public, but Sonam had scouted out the temple where it was to be held, and received permission for us to view it from an adjoining room.

We took a leisurely walk through the village, stopping at the medical shop to pick up another supply of vitamin C, as we are all down with Jeanna's flu. Pharmacies in Bhutan are called "medical shops". As always, we were made most welcome, with many smiles and greetings. Sales people were never pushy. We found a cobbler in a tiny shop who punched another hole in my belt. It needs to be three notches tighter to hold my pants up than when I left Costa Rica! Marilynn has also lost weight. She says she is going to patent this trip as a crash diet program!

Back at the hotel we picked up Jeanna to return with us to the ceremony. Sonam led us to the courtyard faced by the Crown Prince's quarters. There were two other tourists and a guide in the area, so he told us to take photos and look around while he checked out the situation. When the other people were distracted he quickly gave us the signal to duck through a doorway and climb a narrow flight of stairs, which led to a room with open windows looking over the valley from high in the fortress. The sound of chanting came through four interior open windows looking into the temple. There was no glass in any of the windows.

Inside, rows of maroon robed monks sat cross-legged along each wall, including directly below the windows we were peering through. At the end of the room, on a throne, sat the abbot of the monastery clothed in gold coloured robes. In front of him were two rows of six cross-legged monks with drums.

The chanting was very low and guttural, as if from the throat, accompanied by the slow beating of the drums and the occasional chime. At the end of the room, faced by the abbot, was the altar. In front was a table of offerings and a table of lit butter candles. The altar was highly decorated and very ornate. The only thing in the room that smacked of the present was a number of bags of Lay's Potato Chips on the offering table!

From time to time the chanting would change in rhythm and depth of voice. The scene was surreal and mystical. Eventually monks brought the table of butter candles and the table of offerings out into the room in which we were standing. The Lay's Chips were put into a sack, which disappeared back inside the temple.

Next, five brightly costumed dancers appeared, each wearing a wide brimmed black hat with a pointed top. The leader was dressed in black robes, two dancers wore red robes and two wore blue robes. Each wore an apron with the large, fearsome face of a protector painted on it. The very stylized dance carried on to the sound of slow beating drums and rhythmic chanting. The leader would from time to time produce a small bell and ring it.

Attending monks laid ceremonial props on the floor in the centre of the circle of dancers, which was to be ceremonially stabbed with daggers to kill evil, and at another time provided each dancer with a cup into which one attendant dropped rice and another poured wine from a beautifully designed silver container. The dancers did not miss a beat. It was an amazing display, and so incredible to look into the actual workings of a monastic ceremony as opposed to a tourist show. The feeling was otherworldly, as if we had been transplanted into another time where we were witnessing these ancient rites.

While the dancing went on, cleaners and other service providers gathered around the table of blessed offerings. Monks mixed the rice, vegetables and some sweets together then scooped the mixture into shawls held by the poorly paid workers. They would take this blessed food home for their families, a gift from the 350 monks who call this monastery home. All too soon it was 5 PM and we had to leave. We all agreed that Bhutan is indeed a magical, mystic, mountain kingdom in which one is subject not only to amazing sights, but also inexplicable feelings as well.

Saturday, October 29, 2005

Sonam suggested an 8:30 AM start today, but we voted to start at 8. The weather was sunny as we made the 8-hour drive over our previous route back to Thimphu. We stopped for lunch at the same restaurant in Punakha where we ate a few days ago. It seemed a long time ago that we left here!

In spite of generally good weather, we once again were not able to see the mountains from the top of the Dochu La (Pass) due to cloud, but the bright red and yellow fall colours illuminating the hills were well worth seeing. We also had a treat when Chimi's sharp eyes spotted some Grey Langurs. These are monkey like animals, but larger, and very shy. Marilynn was able to get some photos before they disappeared into the forest.

We arrived in Thimphu with no one feeling very well. Both Sonam and Chimi were now feeling signs of the flu. After checking into the same hotel room as last time I did some writing while our ever helpful guide and driver took Marilynn to collect some stones she left with a jeweller to be set, and Jeanna to a medical clinic to see if something could be done to fight her tenacious and infectious flu.

Sonam begged off dinner to get some rest, while Tim & Jeanna did not want to go out. I refused to eat in the hotel's restaurant again because it was so horrible last time, so Marilynn and I walked a few blocks to a pub recommended by Sonam, where we had spare ribs, chips and cole slaw. The total bill, including a scotch, a bottle of soda, a beer and the food was $7.90. The food was great, and it made a welcome change in menu.

Tomorrow we will head for Paro.