Africa & India 2006: 18 - Chennai to Hong Kong and home

Saturday, March 18, 2006

Marilynn came back delighted with the great prices on her fabric purchases at a couple of shops near the hotel, until using the calculator we found she had misplaced a decimal point - she paid ten times more for the goods than she thought! Delight promptly turned to remorse!

After a drink and snacks at the hotel we headed for the airport, where procedures were relatively easy. The Malaysian Airlines Airbus 330 left right on time, and I actually got a little sleep on the 3 hr 20 min flight without the assistance of a pill. We had to kill four hours in the Kuala Lumpur Airport, but the Malaysian lounge is great, with hot and cold buffet, internet, showers, a room of massage chairs and so on. Marilynn dozed while I tried all the different massage chairs - some were amazingly good!

Our Malaysian departure was again on time, on a more comfortable Boeing 777-200 where the seats reclined into a bed. I read for the whole flight while Marilynn laughed through the movie, but the 3 hours 40 minutes passed quickly. We landed in Hong Kong in 33 C heat and light fog.

Hong Kong airport was as efficient as ever, but the gradual increase in the number of mainland Chinese among employees was evident. The automaton that processed us at immigration never changed the expression on his blank face, looked at us only to verify the passport photo, never said a word even when spoken to and went through the necessary motions as if programmed. There were rows of immigration agents, so waiting was minimal.

I purchased train tickets to Kowloon on my credit card, changed money at a rate that later proved I was thoroughly hosed and climbed aboard the fast, comfortable train to Kowloon. Although there was lots of activity in the airport there was only one other person in the coach we were in. As before, free baggage carts were available at the train for the short walk to the complementary bus to the hotel.

The Chola Sheraton has definitely spoiled us. When we walked into the Hong Kong Sheraton there was no one to help with our bags, the reception clerk went to the same charm school as the airport immigration guy (although she did speak when spoken to) and no one offered to assist us to the room with our baggage. Check in was at a standard counter, where at the Chola it was done at a desk in comfortable chairs. At the Chola a receptionist walked us to our suite and went over all the features available (she would not accept a tip for it). Here we found our own way, hauling our baggage. At any rate, we do have a nice 14th floor room with a spectacular view of Hong Kong Island and the waterway between, even if we are paying more than double for much less!

After settling into the room we walked around Kowloon to check out tailors. After getting prices we realized that the Hong Kong we once considered bargain city for that sort of thing has changed - prices were double what we would pay to have similar items made in Costa Rica. Having cloths made was out!

Dinner was pub grub in my favourite Irish Pub, Murhpy's. On our way back we ducked into an alley to buy a bottle of wine and some beer to drink while watching the island of Hong Kong light up for the night. I never tire of that sight, with the endless stream of boats of all shapes and sizes plying the waters between the island and us.

Monday, March 20, 2006

This was the lazy morning of the trip! We didn't finally get going until almost noon on another foggy day, stopping at Murphy's for brunch. We excused the slow service at the pub last night due to the crowd, but at lunchtime it was quiet and the wait for food was interminable. Between bad service and prices that doubled over the two years since I was last there, it has been stricken from my favourites list! A pint of beer is now over ten US dollars!

We spent the afternoon strolling up one side of Nathan Street and then back down the other. The hawkers on the sidewalk trying to drag people into shops for tailoring, copy purses and copy watches are as annoying and persistent as ever. Most are from India.

We bought some ready made clothes, but found that the highly competitive electronics shops are where the great buys are. Marilynn could have bought her camera and 400 lens for half of what we paid. We also learned that the asking price is roughly double the final price that is offered as you walk out the door. One item we purchased was a plug in adaptor about the side of a credit card, but a little thicker, that downloads camera memory chips into a computer.

We walked to the basement Mu Kong Shanghai Restaurant about a block from the hotel. It was fairly empty when we went in, being only about 6:30, but soon after there was not a seat left in any of the large dining areas. Not being familiar with Shanghai food, we trusted our luck in ordering, and the food was excellent. A kindly Chinese waitress who spoke a little English "adopted" us, showing us how to apply sauce to a crepe like pancake, insert the sliced duck and vegetables, and fold it for eating. It was phenomenal, as was the black bean crab. A dish of vegetables was served when we finished our other food, adding one more delicious taste to the others we had not experienced before. It was a truly memorably meal!

Both of us being uncomfortably stuffed - it was one of those cases where the mind wanted more of the flavours and the stomach had no more room - we decided on a walk along the waterfront. A wide walkway built on pilings along the Kowloon waterfront, decorated with statues, makes a wonderful place to stroll while watching the lights across the way and the boat traffic. One stretch of the walkway is called "The Avenue of the Stars". Tiny lights weave a route connecting squares containing the handprints and names of famous Chinese movie stars. The statues on this stretch are of movie directors and cameramen in action.

After an hour we were pretty cold, so headed back to the hotel via an underground shopping mall. The rooftop bar served up nightcaps and view of the harbour with reflections of the lights on the other side before we turned in.

Tuesday, March 21, 2006

I was up at 7 AM, Marilynn somewhat later. We decided to take the ferry over to Hong Kong Island, stopping for a good breakfast at Coral Restaurant near the Star Ferry. It is still possible to have a filling breakfast for two for about $5.00. The Star Ferry is still $HK 2.20, about 30 US cents, and the service is as efficient as ever.

We stopped in a tourist information office on the way, where Marilynn spotted a brochure for Ocean Park. I favoured a boat trip to see the big Buddha statue, but as the fog is worse than ever today agreed that it would be better to head for Ocean Park. A short taxi ride took us through the tunnel to the Aberdeen side of the island, and deposited us at the gate.

Our first stop was to watch the two giant pandas that live there. They are in a clean, fresh smelling, temperature controlled environment built to simulate their native bamboo forested hills. They both put in an appearance, and we watched for a long time as one laid back against a rock, with his feet stretch out in front of him, munching contentedly on bamboo shoots. They look every bit as cuddly as the stuffed teddy bear version, just a lot bigger!

According to the displayed information, scientists are not certain to which branch of the mammal tree pandas belong, but they do know they are much closer to the racoon side of the family than to bears. Watching their dexterity in picking things up and picking leaves off branches it is obvious that their front feet are much more flexible than bear paws.

We watched an entertaining show with sea lions before taking a cable car over two high hills and through the valley between, following the coastline. It provided a great view of Repulse Bay and the Ocean World site. Marilynn was terrified, as it was a pretty fair drop to the rocky coast below, but it is the only practical way to the shark, seal and coral reef habitants. It is also the site of a great roller coaster and other adrenaline pumping rides.

We had some lunch at a fast food viewpoint then walked through the seal area. They are in huge tanks, with underwater caves, natural looking beaches and rocks for them to climb on. The water is crystal clear, it is like swimming with them when in the darkened below water walkways

We walked around the hill and found we were looking directly down on Aberdeen, with its many Chinese junks and other boats. More walking brought us to the shark tanks, where hammerhead, nurse, reef and other sharks swam along side various types of rays and barracuda. The situation was similar; a well designed habitant with both above and below water viewing.

Adjoining the shark tank was the tropical reef display, where another huge tank had a vast number of colourful tropical fish of all shapes and sizes swimming around an artificial reef. They even had tiger fish like we had seen in the Andaman Islands.

The climb back up to the cable car was a bit of a strain, my feet and legs having already worn out, but we made it. By the main entrance another show was going on, so we watched it before taking a cab back to the Star Ferry for Kowloon.

Ocean Park makes a great outing for anyone with a little time in Hong Kong. I'd recommend going early in the morning, as the tour busses were arriving en mass by the afternoon. The entry fee is $US 25, and a season ticket about three times that amount. Entrance included all shows and attractions, including the cable car, but some of the rides have an additional charge. It is good value!

Marilynn was feeling a bit out of sorts, so instead of walking around to find a new restaurant we headed for the same restaurant as last night and had another excellent meal. An English-speaking customer was saying that the restaurant has won all kinds of culinary rewards. I'd say they were well deserved!

We were back at the hotel in time to watch the light show held from 8-8:15 each evening. Banks of searchlights & laser beams are located on tall buildings on both sides of the water, and they put on quite a show!

Wednesday, March 22, 2006

We checked out of the hotel and after a two-minute wait were on the free shuttle bus to the train station. It runs every 12 minutes, and the train to the airport runs every 10 minutes. It is a very efficient, fast and inexpensive system, costing $HK60 (about $US 8) per person, from hotel to airport. Luggage carts are lined up at the bus, to use to get to the train, then at the airport station they are lined up side by side to use to get to the airline check in. No charge for their use.

The immigration fellow we had was a little more cheerful today, and all exit procedures at the airport were quick, painless and efficient. At Continental's check in they laminated my business cards with heavy plastic for identification of our suitcases.

In Hong Kong Continental uses the Dragonair Lounge for clients waiting for a flight. It was very well done, with Internet and other facilities, plus both Chinese and English breakfasts. We had both, taking advantage of Chinese soups custom made while you wait.

The Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking Corporation (HSBC) still prints Hong Kong currency, although this time I saw no Hong Kong coins with the queen's head on them. The must finally be out of circulation. It is interesting that a multinational British owned bank supplies the legal tender for Hong Kong. It says on the paper money "Hong Kong & Shanghai Banking Corporation agrees to pay to the bearer the sum of " and the amount. If someone presented a banknote to the bank to be paid the promised amount, I wonder what form of payment would be received?

Today's 15-hour flight on a Continental Boeing 777-200 was long, but comfortable enough. The seats recline flat out, and although Marilynn got a little sleep I didn't in spite of taking a sleeping pill. It was a polar flight that headed due north from Hong Kong across China and Siberia, around north of Alaska, then down through Hudson's Bay to Newark.

Arrival in Newark was half and hour late but customs & immigration into the USA were quick and friendly, and the flight out on time, so there was only about half an hour to wait. Interesting to note that in Newark a luggage cart costs $US 3.00 to use! The 5 hours to Costa Rica was smooth with exceptional in flight service. Faithful Carlos, our caretaker, was at the airport to pick us up, so it was a smooth ending to a great trip.

The next trip, scheduled for October & November, will be to Western Sahara, Libya, Algeria, Iraq, Lebanon, Kuwait, Qatar, Yemen, Bahrain, Syria, Oman, Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates of Abu Dhabi, Ajman, Fujeirah, Ras Al Khaimah, Umm Al Qaiwain and Sharjah. Stay tune!