Travel Journal

Live the adventures of Dan Walker's travels through reading his travel journal. The travel journals are listed below in descending order of date. To search the travel journals, use the keyword search at the bottom of the page.

Journal Entry:

Trips | Rolls Alaska To Argentina & Back 2011

Monday, March 28, 2011 16:59:58
Rolls Alaska to Argentina & back: 19 San Sebastian to , Argentina Friday, March 25, 2011 Miles for the day: 194 (312 km) Miles to date: 11,132 (17,915 km) We taxied to the garage where the gas leak in the car had been repaired on a cold, cloudy morning. After an hour with the mechanic and payment of $350 he gave us good directions to get onto the highway south. We made one error that cost us a few miles, but arrived at San Miguel de Tucuman before 3 AM. Marilynn had booked the downtown hotel last night and with the help of local directions we had no trouble finding it. The drive was through verdant green forests with large trees of types I didn't recognize. Eventually the skies cleared and the area became drier, with palm trees and smaller vegetation. Argentina has frequent police checkpoints, but we have been stopped only a couple of times. Most have a policeman sitting beside the road in a chair waving cars through. One of the things I very much like is the 110 kph (68 mph) speed limit even on two lane roads - no worry about being stopped for speeding. We stopped at three gas stations before gassing up at the fourth. One didn't have gas and two wouldn't accept credit cards. There are a large number of abandoned gas stations, likely caused by the restrictions on fuel. Our hotel was in the center of the old city, so once checked in I ordered a new starter solenoid (it no longer works at all) and then we walked around looking at the beautiful old buildings and the central Plaza de Independencia. Our timing for food is bad - big lunches can be had until 3 or 4 PM, but no dinner until at least 9 at night. After trying one restaurant where no one served us we went to another where they came up with a plate of snacks. This, accompanied by good local wine and a litre of beer helped ease the hunger. Saturday, March 26, 2011 * * Miles for the day: 359 (578 km) Miles to date: 11,491 (18,493 km) Finding our way out of town went surprisingly well, but the main highway south was in terrible condition. To make things worse it was cold and rainy again. After clobbering a particularly large set of potholes we decided we'd had enough of bad weather, bad roads, dirty shabby looking cities, searching for gas and trying to find places that accepted credit cards. Marilynn studied the map and found a road headed east, so we took it. We will take the shortest route we can to get out of Argentina. The people have been great, but it is obvious from gas shortages and lack of infrastructure maintenance that the country has problems. Our new route took us over back roads that were initially better than the main highway, although one we turned on was in such bad shape that after travelling less than a city block we turned around and chose a longer but smoother route. In the City of Santiago del Este we had the car washed while \|Marilynn bought us each a takeout sandwich. It was the most expensive car wash yet, but we have found most things very costly in Argentina. We found our way out of the city to another road headed east, but it was very slow going as for a long way it was one lane broken concrete with a wide area of mud on each side. Fortunately traffic was light. When another vehicle wanted to pass me, or if a vehicle was coming the other way, we would try to pick a spot where the mud was less deep to pull over and stop until the other vehicle went by. So much for the car wash! Initially we were in cattle country, with scattered trees, but this then changed to good farmland with varied crops. Thousands of birds were hidden in the grass along both sides of the road, and when the car approached they would fly, some directly at the car, blocking all visibility. They had to have a death wish, as they immediately went back to where they were to repeat the performance when the next vehicle came along. Hawks were having a field day dining on the birds killed when they flew into passing vehicles. After passing a number of small towns we finally found one with a good hotel. Why it was built here I don't know, but it obviously didn't work out and now was run with minimal services. There was no food at all available until 9 PM, and we arrived at about 4 PM having not eaten since an early breakfast. The bar had only beer, OK for me but not great for Marilynn, and didn't have so much as a peanut for a snack. Sunday, March 27, 2011 * * Miles for the day: 316 (509 km) Miles to date: 11,807 (19,002 km) Breakfast has been included with all hotels, but we haven't seen an egg since Peru. It usually consists of juice, cereal, sometimes fruit, bread, tea or coffee and inevitably ham and cheese, which I'm thoroughly tired of as it has been the main staple every morning since we started. This morning we hit a new low - there was only ham and cheese and buns that had been toasted the night before. Once on the road we started going from gas station to gas station looking for one that both had gas and that would accept a credit card. Yesterday we tried the same thing without success, and ended up putting 100 pesos cash (about $25 US) of gas into the tank. US dollars are not accepted, and we've found nowhere that would change dollars for four days. Eventually, when we were down to less than a quarter tank, Marilynn went over our predicament in detail with a gas station owner who liked the car, and he eventually agreed to take a credit card. It seems gas stations can take credit cards but won't because of the 7% commission banks charge. It poured rain all day, making driving in ruts full of water that trucks had worn into the roads a nightmare. We took the wrong road twice getting through Corrientes after crossing the Rio Panana, but after losing over half an hour got back on track again. Marilynn did her plea in a resort town where we searched for gas, and after a battle got them to agree not only to put gas on the credit card but to allow us to put snacks from the convenience store on as well! It was a long, hard day. The rain never let up, and towards the end of the day we couldn't find a town with a hotel. After a couple of false leads a lady in a toll booth suggested we turn into the town of San Ignacio, where the first hotel we tried was full. They recommended another one, the Hotel Portal del Sol that was the find of the trip. It was an old but well maintained hotel with a big room that had a king and single bed, two easy chairs, a desk and a balcony. The price was $US 42.50 per night including breakfast. The owner even moved his car so the Rolls could be use a covered parking place! They did everything to make us feel truly welcome. We were amazed that the bar/restaurant was open as it was 4:30 PM. There was no writing or mail done that night as I tied into the beer a litre at a time and Marilynn coached the bartender on creating drinks for her!

Monday, March 28, 2011 16:59:58

Rolls Alaska to Argentina & back: 19 San Sebastian to , Argentina

Friday, March 25, 2011

*Miles for the day: 194 (312 km) Miles to date: 11,132 (17,915 km)*

We taxied to the garage where the gas leak in the car had been repaired on a cold, cloudy morning. After an hour with the mechanic and payment of $350 he gave us good directions to get onto the highway south. We made one error that cost us a few miles, but arrived at San Miguel de Tucuman before 3 AM. Marilynn had booked the downtown hotel last night and with the help of local directions we had no trouble finding it.

The drive was through verdant green forests with large trees of types I didn't recognize. Eventually the skies cleared and the area became drier, with palm trees and smaller vegetation.

Argentina has frequent police checkpoints, but we have been stopped only a couple of times. Most have a policeman sitting beside the road in a chair waving cars through. One of the things I very much like is the 110 kph (68 mph) speed limit even on two lane roads - no worry about being stopped for speeding.

We stopped at three gas stations before gassing up at the fourth. One didn't have gas and two wouldn't accept credit cards. There are a large number of abandoned gas stations, likely caused by the restrictions on fuel.

Our hotel was in the center of the old city, so once checked in I ordered a new starter solenoid (it no longer works at all) and then we walked around looking at the beautiful old buildings and the central Plaza de Independencia. Our timing for food is bad - big lunches can be had until 3 or 4 PM, but no dinner until at least 9 at night. After trying one restaurant where no one served us we went to another where they came up with a plate of snacks. This, accompanied by good local wine and a litre of beer helped ease the hunger.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

* *

*Miles for the day: 359 (578 km) Miles to date: 11,491 (18,493 km)*

Finding our way out of town went surprisingly well, but the main highway south was in terrible condition. To make things worse it was cold and rainy again. After clobbering a particularly large set of potholes we decided we'd had enough of bad weather, bad roads, dirty shabby looking cities, searching for gas and trying to find places that accepted credit cards. Marilynn studied the map and found a road headed east, so we took it. We will take the shortest route we can to get out of Argentina. The people have been great, but it is obvious from gas shortages and lack of infrastructure maintenance that the country has problems.

Our new route took us over back roads that were initially better than the main highway, although one we turned on was in such bad shape that after travelling less than a city block we turned around and chose a longer but smoother route. In the City of Santiago del Este we had the car washed while |Marilynn bought us each a takeout sandwich. It was the most expensive car wash yet, but we have found most things very costly in Argentina.

We found our way out of the city to another road headed east, but it was very slow going as for a long way it was one lane broken concrete with a wide area of mud on each side. Fortunately traffic was light. When another vehicle wanted to pass me, or if a vehicle was coming the other way, we would try to pick a spot where the mud was less deep to pull over and stop until the other vehicle went by. So much for the car wash!

Initially we were in cattle country, with scattered trees, but this then changed to good farmland with varied crops. Thousands of birds were hidden in the grass along both sides of the road, and when the car approached they would fly, some directly at the car, blocking all visibility. They had to have a death wish, as they immediately went back to where they were to repeat the performance when the next vehicle came along. Hawks were having a field day dining on the birds killed when they flew into passing vehicles.

After passing a number of small towns we finally found one with a good hotel. Why it was built here I don't know, but it obviously didn't work out and now was run with minimal services. There was no food at all available until 9 PM, and we arrived at about 4 PM having not eaten since an early breakfast. The bar had only beer, OK for me but not great for Marilynn, and didn't have so much as a peanut for a snack.

Sunday, March 27, 2011

* *

*Miles for the day: 316 (509 km) Miles to date: 11,807 (19,002 km)*

Breakfast has been included with all hotels, but we haven't seen an egg since Peru. It usually consists of juice, cereal, sometimes fruit, bread, tea or coffee and inevitably ham and cheese, which I'm thoroughly tired of as it has been the main staple every morning since we started. This morning we hit a new low - there was only ham and cheese and buns that had been toasted the night before.

Once on the road we started going from gas station to gas station looking for one that both had gas and that would accept a credit card. Yesterday we tried the same thing without success, and ended up putting 100 pesos cash (about $25 US) of gas into the tank. US dollars are not accepted, and we've found nowhere that would change dollars for four days. Eventually, when we were down to less than a quarter tank, Marilynn went over our predicament in detail with a gas station owner who liked the car, and he eventually agreed to take a credit card. It seems gas stations can take credit cards but won't because of the 7% commission banks charge.

It poured rain all day, making driving in ruts full of water that trucks had worn into the roads a nightmare. We took the wrong road twice getting through Corrientes after crossing the Rio Panana, but after losing over half an hour got back on track again. Marilynn did her plea in a resort town where we searched for gas, and after a battle got them to agree not only to put gas on the credit card but to allow us to put snacks from the convenience store on as well!

It was a long, hard day. The rain never let up, and towards the end of the day we couldn't find a town with a hotel. After a couple of false leads a lady in a toll booth suggested we turn into the town of San Ignacio, where the first hotel we tried was full. They recommended another one, the Hotel Portal del Sol that was the find of the trip. It was an old but well maintained hotel with a big room that had a king and single bed, two easy chairs, a desk and a balcony. The price was $US 42.50 per night including breakfast. The owner even moved his car so the Rolls could be use a covered parking place! They did everything to make us feel truly welcome.

We were amazed that the bar/restaurant was open as it was 4:30 PM. There was no writing or mail done that night as I tied into the beer a litre at a time and Marilynn coached the bartender on creating drinks for her!