Belize 2012: 1 - Caye Caulker

Something usually goes wrong near the beginning of the best planned trip, but I thought that with only two one hour flights and one plane change there was little room for problems. Wrong!

Originally, TACA Airlines had said it was not possible to get from Costa Rica to San Salvador in time to make the connecting flight to Belize City, so an overnight in San Salvador was arranged with a non-refundable booking at the San Salvador Sheraton. The flight to Belize City was arranged for the next day. Although the choice of hotels was limited due to high season, hotels were located and booked on Caye Caulker, Ambergris Caye and at Caves Branch. Prices were high, but we did well to get rooms. Connecting flights on a domestic carrier, Tropic Air, were also arranged.

A few days before we were to leave an unwelcome call from TACA informed me that both our flights had been cancelled. We now had to leave on a newly scheduled morning flight that would connect with an afternoon flight to Belize City, so we lost the prepaid hotel in San Salvador and had to book an additional night in Caye Caulker as all flights the day we were to arrive had been cancelled - fortunately a room was available. A new plane ticket was purchased from Belize City to Caye Caulker. The return flight was a day later than we planned, costing another hotel night in Belize City.

Monday, March 12, 2012

On the day things went well - flights were on time, smooth an comfortable. A "taxi" was arranged by the hotel to meet us at the tiny Caye Caulker airport, where the wood terminal looked more like a small back country general store. Our taxi was a golf cart - the baggage went beside the driver and we sat on the rear facing back. Roads on the island are sand, and there are no cars. About half way to the hotel the skies opened and we were enveloped by a tropical deluge of rain. The driver suggested we take cover in a grocery store, as we were getting soaked in the open cart. This worked out well, as we used the time to buy beer and other essentials.

The hotel, Caye Caulker Condos, was great - in one of the best locations on the island. It is operated by Barbara, a lady from Ontario, Canada, who was super friendly and helpful. We had a large room with a patio and gate onto the street - the other side of the street was ocean. There was a fully equipped kitchenette, wifi, and a pool out the other door.

We walked down the beachfront road in search of a pub with food for dinner, there were several nearby. After a dinner of conch fritters, shrimp and ceviche plus drinks, we decided to walk further down the street. There are chairs and benches scattered along the beachfront, and while resting on one of these the town constable, Terrance, parked his bicycle and came over to introduce himself. After a chat, we picked up a few things at a super and headed for the hotel.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

A leisurely beginning to a great day. \We walked half a block to where a sand boat launching ramp made easy access to the clear ocean for a morning swim, followed by breakfast at an oceanside table where we ate last night. A dive shop recommended a snorkel tour place across the street, where we booked a dive to the barrier reef, about a mile away.

Shortly before catching the open boat I returned to the dive shop to rent a weight belt, where one was made up for me and handed over. I asked if he wanted my name, and he said no - just bring it back when I was finished. It is a laid back place, with everyone very friendly and outgoing.

It was a short boat ride to "shark/ray" alley, where food containers are dropped in water about 5 feet deep. At one time I counted 21 sting rays and 3 nurse sharks around us. After we had been there for awhile I got the idea of hanging onto a rope from the boat and floating above the food container. Marilynn, who was swimming behind me, had a near heart attack when two 6 foot long sharks came over to investigate, and actually rubbed against each side of me simultaneously. Another curious one came up face to face, until he actually touched my face mask - that made me a touch nervous. I was hoping his intentions were honourable.

The next dive site was deeper, along the inside of the barrier reef. There were a lot of fish and the water was so clear it was hard to believe we were underwater - visibility was amazing. We came across two big, green moray eels - each 5 or 6 feet long. I was swimming about 20 feet down when one decided he didn't like me there and came up at me. When I figured out that he was serious I moved upright and gave him a tap on the nose with my fin, which changed his mind and he headed back down. Marilynn, who was above and behind me, says the second eel was also coming at me from behind, but he broke off when the first one did. All in all an exciting trip.

We booked an 8 our dive outing for the morning, put our gear out to dry at the hotel and walked about a block to a bar called The Lizard located in what looks like a bombed out shack. It is located on a navigable pass, created by a hurricane, called The Split. Buildings on the other side of the island are now accessible only by boat. The side of the bar facing The Split was packed, a fun place with an amazing view of the setting sun. It took some time to penetrate the crush at the bar to get a drink, but we then discovered a second floor bar that was less crowded and offered a better view. All areas are open air - there were even tables in the ocean where one could get wet inside and out.

Dinner was at the Rainbow, another ocean front bar, where we had more fresh seafood. It was a really great day, and a good start to shedding some of the pressure we live with in Costa Rica.

Wednesday, March 14, 2012

A group of 8 of us left at 9 AM for a snorkelling trip to Turueffe Attol, located well outside the barrier reef in open ocean. It took almost two hours of pounding in fairly heavy seas in a fast open boat to get there. Black and blue backsides will be the order of the day, in spite of cushioned seats.

It was a really good group of people, but the snorkelling was disappointing. Visibility was not as good as yesterday, the coral not very colourful and not a lot of fish. Cloudy skies did nothing to help the visibility. We had the same guide today as yesterday, but today he pretty much ignored us to go off on his own to spear fish. Yesterday he had been helpful and attentive. None of the three dive sites we visited would be worth returning to.

We stopped for lunch at what was described as a pristine white sand beach; however it was strewn with years of garbage - old sandals, plastic, etc. It looked like a garbage dump. We all stood around the boat. They had forgotten to bring forks, so Daniel's assistant carved chop sticks and spoons out of the local vegetation. The high point of the trip was an excellent rum punch Daniel had made and brought along, which we drank before the bone jarring run back to Caye Caulker. It was so rough that at times everyone was thrown off the seats into a pile in the bottom of the boat. Daniel made no money on tips today - he had treated the outing as a private fishing trip.

Marilynn and I headed for the Lizard Bar for sunset again, and met Sean from Ireland and his girl friend there - they were on the snorkel trip with us. After seeing the sun down properly we went to a restaurant where the food was cooked on a BBQ on the side of the road but seating was at picnic tables under a roof. It was the best meal of the trip so far!