RUSSIA & NEW YORK 2015: 1 Preparation and to St. Petersburg, Russia

Sunday, January 11, 2015

The purpose of this trip was to make the dreams of another 10 year old grand daughter come true. After see the movie "Frozen" Marianne decided she wanted to go to the North Pole, however after we explained that it would take a lot of time sitting on a small ship to get there and back she decide that somewhere with snow, reindeer, dog sleds and ice sculpture would be great.

The lack of reindeer left Alaska and North Canada out, so we tried Norway, Sweden and Finland, all of which border on Lapland in the north. The travel companies who answered wanted between $US40,000 and $50,000 for the three of us, plus some wanted a non-refundable deposit before they would even submit a proposed itinerary and quote.

After some thought, I got a brainwave - why not the Murmansk area of Russia, as Lapland extends across the northern extremes and is inhabited by the same nomadic Sami people. We would tie in a few days in St. Petersburg for a cultural tour and shopping for cold weather cloths – as it is not possible to purchase cold weather gear in warm Costa Rica.

After some searching, Marilynn found Kola Travel - Metallurgov avenue 15/2-11 - Monchegorsk - Murmansk region 184511, Russian Federation Tel. +7 81536 71313 or gsm +7 921 287 1311. www.kolatravel.com, info@kolatravel.com. She dealt with Svetlana there, who speaks perfect English. They were patient and well informed. When she had the whole trip put together it included hotels, a car and driver, many of our meals and all activities, and all their tours are fully insured. The bill was 2,416 euros (about $US 2,900) for the three of us, including staying in three different cities over 7 days. What a massive difference from the Scandinavian countries!

Getting the Russian visa in Costa Rica was straightforward - I didn't have to go to the embassy, the documents were delivered and picked up by a messenger.

I gave up on business class, as the price was $16,500 compared to $5,551.09 in economy. It was interesting that the 5 hour flight to Newark, New Jersey and back was $3,454.39 and the 14 hour return flight to St. Petersburg with one stop from Newark was only $2,096.70. The difference between high season and low season!

It was a brutally long day for travel, made worse by Marianne not returning from a trip to Mexico with her parents until 10:30 the night before, so no one started out rested. We were up before 4 AM after 4 hours in bed to be at the airport in San Jose by 5. We tried for a business class upgrade on miles, but that fell through at the last moment, so we bought economy plus, which had room for my legs. Although water was served, there was no food except for sale, and no entertainment unless purchased. Movies in the small screen in the back of the seat in front cost $7.99. Surprisingly, it was not required to swipe a credit card to use the toilet. North American airlines are going out of their way to preserve their reputation as the worst in the world.

The flight arrived a little early, so we headed for Austrian Airlines to try to arrange seating for the long haul to Vienna, Austria. We asked to buy an upgrade, and were told it was possible for 500 euros, but then investigation the price went to $600, $700 then $900 so we gave up. After about 20 minutes at check in we settled for bulkhead seats for Marilynn & Marianne, and exit row for me. Bulkhead cost $70 US and exit $90. While going through this, one of the luggage guys took a check in suitcase with the winter cloths in it and sent it off with nothing attached showing the destination. They gave us a receipt for the case, but we are sceptical about seeing it any time soon. Their ground staff have to be seen to be believed! When I asked the head guy about seating configuration on the plane he said haughtily, "How would I know? I've never been on the plane".

Once on board the European light crew were entirely different, they couldn't do enough to make everyone comfortable. Seat assignments were screwed up, including for Marilynn, although mine was in an exit. Many people did not have the seats they paid for, but the crew on board worked at it until everyone was satisfied. Wine, beer and food on board were complementary, and service was good.

It was surprising to see no snow in Vienna, although there had been some in Newark. The transit lounge was comfortable, with free wifi, many work stations, and flat beds for those who wanted to sleep. There were vending machines, no live food or convenience shops, and the machines accepted only euros.

The one hour forty minute flight to St. Petersburg was comfortable. A hot meal and free beverages (including beer and wine) were provided. The flight arrived half and hour late, and we had been advised the driver from the airport to the hotel would wait only one hour past flight time. Customs was straightforward, so Marianne and I stayed to collect the baggage while Marilynn went straight through to advise the driver we had arrived.

Surprisingly, the unmarked bag arrived duly marked, however my case did not, a fitting punishment for breaking my rule to never check my suitcase. Lost luggage seemed normal, as there were over 20 people waiting at the baggage counter. Marianne sat on the floor with the two bags we had recovered, while I fought through the scramble line to be given forms to fill out – four copies of a two sided form were require, all written individually, and another form of which only one copy was required. The explanation of how to fill it out was cursory at best.

By the time I finished the form another plane had arrived and a whole load of newcomers were there with baggage claims, in addition to our group who were now attacking with completed forms. I had not filled one area in exactly correctly, so was given four more of the two sided forms to do again. This time when I fought my way back to the counter I had to redo only two of the forms. I now had to go to a different area to find an official who would sign and stamp the forms, then back to the mob around baggage claim to once more fight my way to the front to face two new forms, and questions for information entered into a computer. The attendant was simultaneously helping three other people. Apparently there is an 80% chance I will see my case again.

During this process it was not possible to leave the baggage area, as if I did I could not return. The process took about three hours, during which Marilynn and our driver waited not knowing what was going on. We finally escaped the airport at about 5:30 PM. That did it for our planned shopping expedition this afternoon! There was considerable snow, with more falling, and the temperature was minus 17 degrees. I was dressed in my only cloths - shoes with lightweight Tilley socks, regular pants, a silk polo shirt with sweater and my travel vest. There was a bit of a walk to the car so I was feeling chilly by the time we arrived there.

The drive through St Petersburg made up for a lot. Our English speaking driver explained what we were seeing, and the city was decked out in Christmas lights. The Russian Orthodox Christmas is in January, just a few days before our arrival. There were huge illuminated Christmas trees all over, giant Santa Claus figures and beautiful illuminated sculptures. The falling snow gave the entire scene a Christmas card feel.

The Pushkin Hotel is amazing. From the moment we stopped in front there was superb service – the luggage disappeared to reappear in our room, we were conducted to reception where nothing but passport copies was required and quickly escorted to a beautiful, large room with three good sized beds and a large deluxe bathroom. The hotel facilities and service are great.

The hotel has a very good restaurant right next door, where guests receive a 15% discount on everything. On special was a superb hot mulled wine - we both had two, and a well served delicious meal. We were pretty much walking zombies at this point, so it was back to the room where everyone slept about 11 hours.