Africa Great Migration, Ireland, England 2019: 2 - Dublin to Carrickfergus, North Ireland

Wednesday, July 3, 2019

After checking out of the hotel the four of us taxied to the train station with a driver who kept up a laugh a minute monologue. When in Dublin take care – there are two train stations. As Patrick is a train man he had no problem navigating our way to the correct track. An interesting feature of old age in Ireland is that all public transport is free for seniors, trains and buses.

The 2 ½ hour trip to Belfast was comfortable – food and drinks were available on the train from a cart. In Belfast we changed to another train to the Scotland ferry port of Larne, two stops beyond Carrickfergus.

Patrick told us that one must be careful of using names that could be construed as Catholic in the area. This stems from the Battle of the Boyne in 1690 where Dutch prince William of Orange, a protestant who had just been appointed King of England, defeated Catholic James II, king of Scotland. The victory has been celebrated by protestants with parades and festivities in the north of Ireland since 1791 on June 24. Patrick says there is usually violence leading up to the celebration which fans the flames of the problems between Irish Catholics and Protestants. The Carrickfergus area is predominately protestant

Patrick had his car parked at the Carrickfergus station. It was only a couple of blocks to the centrally located Dobbin's Inn. The building dates from 1540 when it was a fortified tower house owned by a wealthy merchant. After centuries of residential use it became the town bakery, the constabulary barracks and was finally converted to a hotel in 1950. It is a short walk to anywhere in Carrickfergus from the hotel..

Once we got settled and tested out the pub we went for whiskey and beer tasting at Patrick's apartment where we met his lady Janet. Dinner for all of us was back at the hotel – their restaurant is rated as the best in town on the internet and we had no argument with that.

Thursday, July 4, 2019

This morning we drove to the very interesting train museum and workshops in Whitehead, the next town. Here old rolling stock and steam engines are on display, plus shops with skilled workers who can rebuild rail cars and engines from the ground up. They have the only working forge remaining in Ireland, so earn money for the Railway Preservation Society by selling custom forged metal work. Most of the people are volunteers – cousin Patrick is the volunteer conductor on most of the steam trains so knew everyone.

A good lunch was at the Central Pub before we walked across the street to explore the very well kept Carrickfergus Castle, which was built by John de Courcy between 1177 and 1195. He was a Norman, descendant of the troops of William the Conqueror who conquered England in 1066 and then Ireland. He was defeated by English King John in 1210 and the castle was expanded over time. In 1760 the French took the castle for a short time but it has been in continuous use – in WWII it was the air raid shelter for the people of Carrickfergus. It is worthwhile taking the guided tour.

Dinner was at a good restaurant overlooking the marina, adjacent to the castle. We all voted to make an early night of it, ending with glasses of port in the hotel bar.

Friday, July 5, 2019

A lazy start. Patrick was busy ensuring all is ready for the steam and jazz train tonight while Mickey, Marilynn and I had lunch before exploring the cemetery. We wanted to see the church, but apparently it is locked up except for specific hours.

We walked to the train station about 5:30 where we found Patrick, who had reserved a table for us in the car with the bar and the band. After getting drinks and bottles of wine organized, Patrick came up with a feast of cold meats, cheeses, pickles, potato salad and many other things he had prepared himself. Meanwhile the train was headed for Belfast where most passengers are picked up. By the time we got there we were stuffed with food, and ready to party.

The train then stopped at three different stations, where the band would set up on the platform for an hour or so, everyone who wanted would get of the train, usually drink in hand, and dance, sing or generally have a good time. When the band stopped everyone got back on the train for the ride to the next station. It is highly recommended as a very special night out.

The last party stop was back at Carrickfergus, so we headed back to the hotel for a nightcap with Mickey once the band stopped. We could have stayed on the train for the round trip to Belfast to return the passengers from there and then to Whitehead where the train stayed, but were getting pretty tired. It was after midnight when we reached the hotel for last call.

Tomorrow we will head for the two train rides back to an airport hotel in Dublin and then an early flight to London.